Surfer Profile: Greg Long

Highlights:
First place Red Bull BWA 2003 Second place Mavericks Surf Contest 2005 First place Mavericks Surf Contest 2008 - Performer of the year 2003 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards - Biggest Wave Of The Year 2006 Billabong XXL - Biggest Paddle Wave Of The Yea

Greg Long has been on a quest for the last few years, a quest that seems him relentlessly chase every storm and every swell at any location in the world. He is after big waves of any sort, and he is finding them. From his victories at Red Bull Big Wave Africa 2003 and Mavericks this year, to the biggest wave ridden at Dungeons and the biggest session in the world ever at Cortes Bank recently, Greg has always been on the spot. Although making his name for all the big wave exploits, Greg surfs great in small waves as well and is a regular out at Trestles whenever it gets going, but big waves are where his passion lies. “For me, big wave surfing is the most physically and mentally challenging facet of surfing. Immersing myself in the ocean during its wildest states, with the ability to coexist and then harness that energy brings about a level of excitement and gratification that is unrivalled.”
Learning the big wave lineups is also imperative, especially in the primarily shifting big wave locations. Greg’s victory at the 2003 Red Bull Big Wave Africa will attest to that. Greg knew when to go wide, and he knew when to paddle deep. He caught all the good waves in that final and he caught them from all over the reef, showing his working knowledge of the variable line-up.
“I believe that life is a never-ending learning process, and I am constantly seeking to improve myself in all aspects of life, especially though m,y surfing. with every surf session, or trip I make, I try and find or learn something new that will potentially help me to further explore, develop and understand my own capabilities, all the while pushing my limits to great horizons.”

While it might seem like loads of exposure and glorious results for the big wave surfing path Greg has chosen, it is not all fun and games all the time. To be in the right place at the right time with decent light and a competent photographer, one who isn’t going to bail on the first sign of some big sets marching through is a lot of hard work.
 “The January 5 2008 Cortes bank trip with Twiggy, Mike Parsons, Brad Gerlach and photographer Rob Brown, was the heaviest time I have experienced in big surf. We made the 105 mile trip through the heaviest conditions in between two giant storms to surf one of the largest swells in recorded history. We all rode the biggest waves we have ever seen, by ourselves, for four hours. One mistake out there would have led to a life-threatening situation.”

Some people enjoy that.